Simply stated, when organic material has been thoroughly decomposed and been through the appropriate number of composting cycles it becomes compost. More specifically, the composting process requires moisture, oxygen, aerobic microbes, carbon/nitrogen ratios and time. Compost is a nutrient rich material that feeds plants and creates an environment that is conducive to plant growth. It differs from mulch, as mulch (or partially decomposed matter) is typically non-decomposed material, and therefore harmful to plants if placed in the root zone (see our Common Problems page to view other common problems associated with so-called ‘compost’ that has not been fully decomposed).

When a poorly composted organic material is mixed into the soil it will consume the nutrients for its own decomposition and cause a deficiency in the plants. This decomposition process creates methane gas and other toxins, which often robs the plant roots of oxygen. As a result, planting in improperly or partially decomposed materials will typically stunt or kill the plants. See our Common Problems page to view other common problems associated with non-SBS soils.

Soil pH can be determined by soil testing companies and special equipment that measure pH levels of soil. Generally speaking, all Metroplex soil has an elevated pH of about 8.4.

Absolutely not! Although pine bark is extensively promoted as an inexpensive soil conditioner and/or mulch it is actually the very worst organic material you could use (with the exception of saw dust, which may be worse). You should avoid all forms of pine bark, regardless if it is raw, aged or composted. Pine bark is nearly void of any nutrient content, very slow to decompose, a poor aerator, does not significantly aid in moisture retention and can cause severe nitrogen tie-up in the soil (requiring prodigious amounts of nitrogen to prevent chronic chlorosis in the planted material. See our Common Problems page to view other common problems associated with non-SBS soils.

For more information on this topic, here is Howard Garrett, the Dirt Doctor:

First, it doesn’t behave itself – wont stay in place. It washes and blows around. When it does stay in place, it’s not very good for plants. As pine bark breaks down, some rather nasty natural chemicals are released – such as phenols and terpenes that outgas and damage biological activity in the soil. These chemicals are basically antimicrobial. That works fine while on the tree trunk but not well in the soil.

Pine bark is used widely as a bed preparation material but should not be. The fine and medium sized products are the worst choices. Very fine particles of pine bark mulch can rob nitrogen from the soil. The large size deco bark is a fair mulch to use for shrubs and ground covers. The large chunks stay in place a little better and allow air to flow around the large pieces and down to the soil and to the plants’ roots. But, there are much better choices.

The best mulch to use is shredded native tree trimmings. Ground up trimmings straight from the tree care company’s truck are a perfect balance of carbon from the wood and bark along with protein (nitrogen) from the flowers, fruit, buds, stems, cambium and green leaves. Some people object to the coarse texture but the horticultural aspect is perfect. Not only is the product a perfect balance of carbon and nitrogen (C:N), the shredded texture functions to hold the mulch in place even on slopes. Shredded cedar is available and is really an excellent mulch but a shredded mix of trees types and bushes is even better. Variety is the spice of life! Some compost companies regrind and partially compost the product to produce a more visually pleasant look but the raw product works just as well or better.

No! Sawdust should not be used as a soil amendment or mulch. As a fresh soil amendment, it is very slow to decompose, is void of nutrient content, is a poor aerator due to its small particle size, does not significantly aid in moisture retention and can cause severe nitrogen tie-up in the soil. Some Metroplex compost yards use saw dust as a major ingredient of their materials, however, to avoid numerous problems (short and long-term), it is strongly recommend that you avoid materials containing sawdust. See our Common Problems page to view other common problems associated with non-SBS soils.

Yes! Manure is a great source of nitrogen and nutrients, as long as the manure is fully composted. If not fully composted, the manure will emit methane gas, which is detrimental to plants. Over-use of manures can contribute to excessive levels of nitrogen and potassium, as well as a lack of available phosphorus, which can cause excessive leaf and stem growth, delayed maturity and poor storage quality in flowers. Raw manures are higher in total nutrient content than dry manures, have a higher population of micro-organism and contain high levels of organic matter, however, the high levels of ammonium in fresh manure can burn plant material. Raw manures may also contain viable weed seeds, as well as high levels of sodium, which is harmful to soil structure and can severely inhibit the growth of plants. In contrast, fully composted manure should be odorless, have the appearance of black dirt, and should not burn plants when blended with other soil. Fully composted manure makes a great soil amendment that will produce desirable results. See our Common Problems page to view other common problems associated with non-SBS soils.

Yes! The chemical Picloram is a persistent herbicide used to control broadleaf plants, brush, conifers and broadleaf trees. It is used to control weeds for agricultural and industrial applications including pasture, rangeland, railroads and power lines. Picloram is extremely phytotoxic (toxic to plants). It poses a significant risk to non-target plants. Estimated concentrations of Picloram in the environment are hundreds to thousands of times the ‘level of concern’ at which 25% of seedlings fail to emerge. As little as 1 part-per-billion in water was found to be enough to permanently damage plants. Animals exposed to toxicity studies showed changes in the liver, decrease in body weight gain, food consumption, liver enzyme changes, skin irritation, redness and swelling. In developmental studies, some signs of maternal toxicity were observed. Picloram is toxic to legumes and some nitrogen fixing grasses. Natural soil building processes may be halted by Picloram. See our Common Problems page on Picloram.

The following provides a brief description of SBS’s different composts (listed from least expensive to most expensive). All SBS composts are fully composted.

Measure the areas that you will be planting (length, width (front to back), and depth). Enter these values into the Cubic Yard Converter on the SBS site. This tool will convert your measurements into cubic yards. Cubic Yards is the unit of measurement that the material is sold in.

SBS has a 30-year track record of success and repeat business. SBS conducts extensive product research and growth charting (over multiple seasons). SBS composts are properly decomposed and are fully composted. SBS products are used in exclusive installations throughout the Metroplex. They are commonly used by premier landscaping companies, municipalities; premier commercial installations, residents of local celebrities, hospitals, schools, State Capital Grounds, Governor’s Mansion, and the like. The products are tried and true, which is how SBS built their business – exclusively through word of mouth and impeccable reputation and integrity. View our Installation Photos to see SBS results. View our Endorsements page to see what customers are saying about SBS products. View our Common Problems page to see what types of problems many others have encountered when using soil products produced by someone other than SBS.